VON’s

It had to happen sooner or later.

We have been blessed as we explored our culinary safari of Ottawa’s dining offerings.

Blessed because we have discovered a genuine food culture that is active and alive. Whether it has been a neighbourhood joint or a well known establishment we have never been completely disappointed, critical maybe but never off put.

In fact we have been enormously encouraged, challenged, to find some place better than the last.

That last place we dined at always seemed to be a place we would return to in a breath.

Our run of luck ran out last night when we decided to dine at VON’s in the Glebe.

VON’s is a Glebe institution that has survived for 30 years. That is impressive.

The room is beautiful. Soft colours, whimsical chalked quotations written on the pillars, pure white table cloths and a comforting bar.

As we looked around the room we felt hopeful.

It wasn’t that long before a server arrived and placed us.

After some time our server returned and asked if we wanted drinks. “Water,” I suggested would be a good start.

Our experience went down hill from there.

But you can’t make sloppy service a bookmark for the rest of the event.

We decided to share the PEI mussels. There are four choices of sauces. We chose the tomato saffron option.

They arrived in a narrow sauce pot. These succulent and tasty mussels were sitting atop their sauce instead of swimming in it. When we finally got to the tomato sauce we found it weak and soupy.(12)

Lynn ordered a Grilled Chicken salad.(18) I opted for the Pork tenderloin stuffed with a prune and sage filling.(23)

Lynn’s salad looked like a salad, but the chicken seemed to have never been close enough to a grill to brag about a relationship, it was cold and dry.

There was another affront lurking in this salad just below greens, small chunks of canned pineapple. Need I say more?

My Pork Tenderloin was beautifully presented, two healthy servings of Pork oozing with the prune and sage stuffing.

Problem was the meat was dry as dust and crusted over from being over cooked or worse precooked and then reheated.

Pork Tenderloin is not that hard to prepare. The trick is, and it is not a big one, keep it moist. The meat speaks for itself and you can’t go far wrong if it has a professional touch in the general vicinity.

I looked over to a woman who was seated at the bar. She had ordered the Steak frite. (26)

A dish I had considered ordering.

Her frites, french fries, were presented in a tin mug of some sort. Curiously it was a McDonalds approach to presentation where a traditional look would have sufficed.

I watched as she attempted to carve her way through her steak searching for a morsel she could actually chew on.

Despite these culinary failings there was no shortage of people willing to pay a premium for poor service and over done food.

How does this happen in a city that we are now discovering, or so we think, has a genuine culinary curiosity?

Maybe some are not far enough removed from Mother’s grey, bloodless Sunday Roast Beef dinners to notice the difference yet.

Perhaps just getting a meal, regardless of its content, is enough for most.

Is it fuel or flavour we seek?


VON’s

819 Bank Street
613-233-3277

http://www.819bank.com/

STONEFACE DOLLY’S
On Preston

Yet again we both had been through a busy couple of days and we just barely had the energy to decide on an area of town to eat in.

We chose to play restaurant roulette and headed off to Preston Street.

The logic was simple. Find a place to park and then walk the street reading the posted menus until we found something that inspired us.

I was hankering for a simple veal scaloppini, Lynn was up for whatever.

We walked and we walked. Most menus offered us the same choices as the last.

We approached a new looking place and searched for its outside menu which was not to be found.

Tired, I suggested that we just go in and take our chances, take the bullet as it were.

We entered a terrific room, part bistro, part trattoria, part martini bar, all smoothly blended into a comfortable space – STONEFACE DOLLY’S On Preston.

In the front end of the room Dolly’s has a terrific bar that seats maybe 8, along with 3 high top tables over looking the street.

The bar curves and extends down the inside wall of the room transitioning into a dessert display and then into a serving area for the open kitchen.

The dining area is roomy but subtly divided into smaller intimate spaces. Standing you can view the whole room, seated your space becomes more private.

We were seated and left with our menus and then just as I was thinking about it, our water glasses arrived and our server explained what they had to offer as the evenings specials.

Then just as we had decided which way we want to go with our order our server was back with a basket of bread and a dip.

This is the often unnoticed art of service. If you are lucky to get a server that tunes into your cadence you will have someone who can guide you through your whole dining experience, someone who will ensure that you get exactly what you want.

The very best servers are stealthy, always there just as you need them, always ready with a suggestion or a question, always ready for anything that you might need.

Dolly’s bills itself as offering homestyle gourmet cookery with an international twist – and they deliver.

Owner Bob Russell was born in South Africa and his birth ground seeps into the menu as does influences from Thailand, Mexico, Europe and other spots where spice is an everyday habit.

Neither of us was that hungry and decided that we might skip the preliminaries and head straight for the entrees.

But…the table beside us was a group of six and two were having the mussel appetizer, one with a Red Thai sauce, the other in a white wine cream sauce. I am a sucker for mussels and I was almost tempted.

Lynn ordered The African Chicken Bobotie which was baked chicken chunks with a light spicing of curry, almonds and raisins served with coconut basmati rice, a yogurt raita and small salad. (16)

I chose Veal “Birds,” a concoction of ground veal wrapped in prosciutto served with a Portobello Mushroom cream sauce and vegetables. (18)

Our orders arrived, nicely presented, freshly hot and wafting with a gentle wisp of spices.

Lynn’s Bobotie turned out to be an open faced thickly crusted pie a swim with pieces of chicken interspersed with almonds and raisins all bound together in an aromatic broth. It smelled and tasted wonderful. The coconut rice was soft and rich, the salad just lightly dressed in earthy vinaigrette.

My “Birds” were lightly grilled to give the prosciutto a soft shell effect for the ground veal it was wrapped around. There was a surprise hidden amoung my vegetables, a dollop of turnips doctored with a little maple syrup and perhaps a hint of Roma cheese or sour cream.

There were a lot of choices that we could have tried. How does an Almond encrusted Chicken breast with caramelized pear and a brie cream sauce sound? (18)

Or perhaps the Jambalya - Chicken, shrimp, sausage and mussels in a mildly spiced Creole tomato sauce. Served with sautéed red and green peppers, carrots, and red onion on a bed of basmati rice, also $18.

Tempted?

Eating at Dolly’s was the tonic we needed for a night when we felt a tad unwilling to make our own decisions.

The room is not small, seating perhaps up to 60 people, but the entire production was handled by two servers, two cooks and a kitchen helper.

Not one of them missed a beat.

STONEFACE DOLLY’S
On Preston

416 Preston Street,
613-564-2222
www.stonefacedollys.com

Manx Pub

When is a pub a pub?

Ottawa is certainly not lacking in pub choices. They are everywhere and are all basically clones of each other. They mimic décor, the faux renderings of English or Irish traditions, the same beers and the same menus.

The Manx, hidden in a very small basement on Elgin Street bills itself as a pub. But a pub it is not.

It has all the trappings of a traditional pub, a dark wood bar, crammed booths and small round tables. But Manx has broken the pub mold by recognizing early on that Ottawa has become a foodie town, long past nachos and chicken wings.

Getting into the Manx takes some dedication. Lynn and I have tried twice to eat there in the past only to be frustrated by the lineup to get in.

The Manx is so small that even 4 people in the line ahead of you constitutes a major hurdle. The nights that we tried to gain entry in the past were very wintery ones, snow squalls outside, foot stomping to keep warm, kind of nights.

Our mistake was we had always arrived at the dinner hour, for us just after 7 so we could be eating by say 7:30 or there about.

If you know the Manx, we discovered, you have to get there early.

Our schedules this week were crowded and busy which meant that dinner was not an option for our weekly date. We decided to meet for a drink as compensation and chose the Manx, 5ish was the target.

Even then it was half full. I walked in a little after 5 and there were women sitting alone at half the tables who looked up at me expectantly as I entered, only to be disappointed. They had arrived early to stake out a spot until their dates or companions arrived.

Real Estate is a precious commodity at the Manx.

Lynn was already there protecting our turf like a suspicious lioness.

The staff has that pub lackadaisical attitude to service but in place that is so small and that has so few tables even the so-so service seems to go unnoticed.

What shines here is the food.

One of the specials was Caribbean seafood pasta which reflects some of the adventure that is offered on the menu. As a starter you might choose a Quesadilla with smoked onion, roasted corn, black beans and cheddar cheese served with sour cream and a tomatillo sauce (9.)

You can get a Furlonger club sandwich, a Lamb curry wrap or a Curried tofu and chickpea burger topped with a balsamic onion jam – all $12 each.

Lynn decided on the Salmon filet with a jalapeno and peach glaze and scalloped sweet potatoes served with a small mixed greens salad tossed in a lime-honey dressing (13.)

I wasn’t that hungry so I steered towards the Crab cakes with a mango-basil chutney accompanied by a lemon-caper aloi (12.)

Lynn hit gold with her Salmon. It was perfectly moist with a gentle hint of the glaze that gave it a curious exotic yet comforting taste. The scalloped sweet potatoes were amazing – almost worth having on their own.

My Crab cakes were terrible, over cooked, almost burnt, dry and suspiciously almost absent of crab. There was a crab taste hidden in there somewhere but I was hard put to poke around trying to find it.

We were halfway through our meal when I looked up to see that the room was now completely full and it was only just shy of six o’clock.

A gentleman beside us was just starting to bite into his delicious looking Curried lamb wrap. Just across from us a young woman was tucking into her Caribbean pasta. Lynn looked like she wanted to stay right where she was sitting, forever.

From everyone’s expressions as they ate I seemed to be the only one without a reason to smile, one out of so many others who seemed not only happy but pleased.

We'll try it again, if we can get in.

Manx Pub

370 Elgin Street
613-231-2070

domus café

domus café would be a unique experience in any Canadian city and we are lucky it have all to ourselves here in Ottawa.

The café is dedicated and focused on Canadian, regional and seasonal cuisine. That means fresh organic produce from local farmers, meats and fish from the best parts of the country, seasonal specialties as nature brings them to harvest during the year.

We had decided to try domus at the last minute and arrived just before seven o’clock without a reservation. We managed to squeak in before the room filled up with other more responsible diners who had managed to call ahead.

The interior of domus is almost a season in itself. With its soft yellow walls and shaded rust trim the café is like a constant breath of spring. The large front windows invites copious amounts of light to pour in no matter what seasonal turmoil is going on outside.

Water was served as was a choice of breads with a dipping sauce of canola oil and a light wine vinegar.

Our server arrived, one of three that manage a room that could seat up to 40. She asked if we wanted drinks and returned promptly with them, ready to answer our menu questions and tell us about the evenings specialties.

The menu was that culinary curse that one occasionally runs into. How do you choose when you want to try it all?

With our servers gentle nudging we decided to share a grilled endive and asparagus salad($14) Lynn choose one the specials, a wild west coast Halibut ($32) while I decided on a menu choice, Tempura Perch ($29.) Both came with the same collection of fresh seasonal vegetables.

The salad was heaven. A pure white endive which had been blanched and then lightly grilled was topped by three short plump spears of asparagus, also grilled, and flanked with spring sprouts on gentle shaves of red onion, semi-soft dollops of Ontario goat cheese, all drizzled with a light CPCO vinaigrette (Cold Pressed Canola Oil.)

Our mains arrived. Lynn’s Halibut was light, flaky and moist. The medley of vegetables included sprouts, mushrooms, fingerling potatoes and the same, or so it seemed, three spears of robust asparagus that had peeked through our previous salad.

My Tempura Perch was wanting. Tempura is something I know and love. I had asked when I ordered if the fish was just battered or tempura battered – there is a difference. The batter was weak and flat, not at all like a good tempura batter which is light and softly crispy. My vegetables were a mirror reflection of Lynn’s.

I can understand, in a way, the efficiency of a common vegetable serving but when I saw one of the flank steak specials go by I thought maybe the plate could have used a different approach to the potatoes.

Asparagus and fingerling potatoes seemed to be the seasonal theme of the day leaving one to wonder what happened to the now available fiddlehead?

We ordered a dessert, a medley of lemon tastes. Three examples of lemon on one plate, a mix that included a lemon sauce, a lemon cake with a dollop of lemon sorbet and a lemon pudding that was thick and sweetly tart.

domus café is a rare treat. The food is above average and fresh, fresh. The dedication to organic produce could use a little widening of the network or at least a little more work marrying the dishes to the accompanying vegetables in a more imaginative rather than just a practical way.

A last note is the wine list. It is pretty extensive and representative. In keeping with their theme to pursue local there are a few choices of Prince Edward County wines that aren’t available anywhere but in Prince Edward County which is just down the road from Ottawa.

Our bill was $107 for a shared salad, two entrees, a shared dessert, a juice and a glass of wine.

The experience and quality was just short of being beyond measure.

But we did wonder if success might have devolved into a formula, if the sense of the Canadian culinary adventure might have been set adrift somehow by the lure of a Henry Ford approach to plate presentation.

domus café

87 Murray Street
613-241-6007
www.domuscafe.ca/

JAZZ'OO

It’s like when you buy a great new pair of shoes. They look fabulous, fit perfectly, but will still require a little breaking in before they become completely comfortable.

That’s JAZZ'OO.

It is billed as a European Bar and Lounge, located on Sparks Street just up from Yesterdays.

It is a restaurant, bar, patio, jazz club and probably any number of other things that weren’t immediately obvious.

We arrived and stood inside for a good 10 minutes before anyone asked if we wanted a table. In that 10 minute span a number of waiters had breezed by us, one stood talking to patrons on the outside patio.

But we eventually got seated and left with our menus. Some time later our waiter returned to ask if we wanted to order drinks. No water, no bread, no advice and seemingly no particular interest.

We wanted to order just a juice and a glass of water deciding to wait until we got the lay of the land. There was some discussion about the juices available. The waiter returned with the wrong juice but managed to get my glass of water right. We said nothing.

The menu is interesting and offers a good choice of options. The salads range into the 18 dollar range while entrees hover between 22 to 35 dollars.

Our waiter returned and asked if we were ready to order. In announcing that there were other items available that weren’t on the menu he promptly pulled out his order pad and began to read the choices to us. I hate this. Serving is part of the experience of dining. Surely your server should know what is on offer, how it is prepared and perhaps, if you’re lucky, even how things taste.

We ordered a Mediterranean Seafood Salad to share ($18). Lynn wanted to try the Mediterranean tenderloin goulash with a tomato paprika chili sauce on basmati rice ($22). I opted for one the specials, a 10 oz steak with steamed vegetables, roasted potatoes and a mushroom wine reduction sauce ($25).

I also ordered a glass of wine from one the most curious wine list I have ever seen. It is pages and pages long. What is curious about it is that it tells you what wines are available but most aren’t. 90 percent of what they list are not available. Think of it as a wine wish list where your wish never comes true.

Finally the bread arrived along with our salad plates. Lynn’s plate had encrusted tomato sauce on the bottom while mine was soap scummed. When my wine finally arrived I told our waiter that we wanted clean salad dishes. “Okay,” he said as he scooped up the dirty ones and left.

The salad arrived along with clean plates. The presentation was odd. Holding true to the current rule of building height on a plate this salad had the height constructed by assorted greens tented underneath 3 full leaves of romaine lettuce sprinkled with the dill yogurt dressing. The upside down cake approach to salads. There was a Sesame encrusted piece of tuna, two sea scallops and two shrimps – not the jumbo shrimps as advertised.

This was a great salad. The tuna was perfectly seared and just warmish inside. The scallops and shrimps were just right. The real surprise was the dill yogurt dressing. It had just a hint of dill, not a heavy hand, and something sweetish to balance the yogurt. I am guessing it was a small drop of honey.

Our plates were cleared and while we awaited our main dishes I noticed another waiter attending to a nearby table. He was animated, full of information, suggestions and was engaging. For the first time ever I realized I was experiencing waiter envy.

Our entrees arrived. Both dishes were well plated. We dug in. "Oh no," raced through my brain as I tried to slice my steak with my Crocodile Dundee sized steak knife. I had a tough piece of meat. It was perfectly prepared, the right color and a perfect crusted sear. The sauce was a treasure. The potatoes were earthy and pungent. The Swiss chard was great but the new small carrots were heated but still annoyingly raw.

To be fair the steak was a good quality piece of meat. As I sawed my way around the gristle there was gold, mind you it only appeared in the smallest of nuggets, but it was quality. I decided that I had just gotten that one bad steak in a hundred of other perfect steaks. Somewhat like our waiter.

I looked up at Lynn to see her fanning herself. “This is hot and very spicy,” she said. She reached for my glass of water for relief. Her own water glass had never been on our waiters agenda.

Lynn is a hot babe in more ways than one. Spicy food is something she enjoys and eats regularly. She was enjoying her dish but would have rather been warned about its bite. Our waiter hadn’t bothered to share that information, or worse he might not have even known.

Drone # 6 returned and asked how our meal was. Most of my carved up steak was still on my plate and I mentioned that the cut was bad. “Can I do something,” he asked. “Well, probably not..,” I responded as a question. “Okay,” he replied as he scooped up our plates and left.

The bill was $91.00 I rounded it off to a 100 dollars. Normally I tip in the 15 to 20 percent range but not on this night.

Serving food is not just a job it is a profession and a good professional can make your experience something special. A good server can serve everyone, the customer, themselves and the business. It is easy to be ordinary and not that difficult to be memorable.

JAZZ’OO has a lot of potential. It is a great looking space, it has great music and offers live Jazz on the weekends. The Wednesday night we were there they had a guitarist playing on the patio.

What it lacks at the moment is focus. The night that we were dining no one was in control, no management to attend to the problems, to oversee the flow of the room, no one to host the experience.

JAZZ’OO

132 Sparks Street,
613-232-6161
www.jazzoobarandlounge.com

Anthony’s On Elgin

We decided that back to basics was the way to go.

Lynn had recovered from a month long battle with her flu and was ready to step out again for a dinner date.

Go somewhere we knew was her thought, somewhere downtown. Her suggestion was the Ritz on Elgin between Somerset and MacLaren.

This restaurant has occupied its thin narrow space on Elgin Street for 25 years. It began as the Ritz number three, part of the Ritz Restaurant Empire. That Empire has since fallen but remaining is Anthony’s On Elgin, same address, same staff and the same cook/owner, and more importantly the same dedication to great food.

Nothing beats the three basics of a successful dining experience: excellently prepared and presented food, seamless service and a comfortable space to tie everything together.

The room resembles the dimensions of a dining car on a train. Instead choosing a paint color to open the room up owner Anthony Ford went the other way picking a milk chocolate brown which makes the room even more intimate. The space is designed to focus on the food and the company you are sharing it with. There are no distractions to divert ones attention to anything other than taste.

Anthony’s is an Italian restaurant – sort of. Pasta is its mainstay, made fresh daily on site as are the desserts.

But Pasta Alla Jambalaya or Spaghetti with Curried Seafood Marinara isn’t the kind of fare you would find in Mama Teresa’s kitchen.

Chef Ford adds contemporary twists to his dishes while remaining true the basics of Italian culinary tradition.

To start we decided to share two appetizers. Lynn ordered the Inslatta Al Antonio. A fabulous light salad of Pear, Provolone, Walnuts and Mixed Greens splashed with red wine vinaigrette. (7.95) Also try the house standard, Inslatta Mista which has to be the best in the city. (5.95)

I ordered the Mussels. They are two options, either cream or tomato based. I have had both but this night I opted for the tomato, tarragon and ginger sauce version. (8.95) The plumpest mussels available peek out from a perfectly balanced sauce with a hint of butter to bind it all together.

Lynn and I are both small eaters and at this point I was satisfied, almost ready for a cognac and a cigar but we decided to press on.

And lo and behold salvation was at hand in that the first three pasta dishes on the menu came in half sizes.

Lynn chose the Pasta Alla Calabrese which was a spicy tomato sauce with Calabrese sausage. (9.95) I decided on the Pasta Con Pesto, fettuccine with a basil pesto, a dollop of Goat Cheese and sprinkled with freshly cut tomato. (9.95) Although each dish was different the sauces were both superb. Each held a delicate balance that gave each of its ingredients a voice.

The real success, however, was the freshly made pasta. Even though pasta seems like a simple thing to cook, and it is, it is the quality, the right mix of egg and flour that makes a truely great pasta a real treat. Anthony makes truely great pasta.

The half sizes we were served amounted to pretty substantial portions. Now I was definitely ready for that cognac.

If there if a fault with Anthony’s it is that you don’t want to leave. I actually felt like ordering more if only to just get a taste. I wanted to try some of days specials like the Grilled Trout with black and green olives, and cherry tomatoes with garlic. (16.95)

We decided that coming back was the better idea than ordering more and asked for our bill. That was another treat $54.00 for two with a juice and a glass of wine. It was the half orders that dropped the price but even still I felt guilty knowing that we would have paid double that amount without question.

The basics work every time.

Anthony’s On Elgin
Monday to Friday 11:30 – 10:00
Weekend 5:00 – 10:00
613-235-7027

http://www.anthonysonelgin.ca/

Staying Home
April 8, 2008

We are doing our dining at home these days, when we can. Lynn has been afflicted with a vicious strain of the flu which has robbed her of her energy, her voice and her taste for dining out.

She is on the mend and, hopefully, now the worst is behind her.

But we aren’t taking any chances for another week or so.

As a consolation prize we offer two places that we have visited before we began writing this blog and highly recommend. We hope to get back to them in the future so we can offer more details.

Infusion Bistro

A small welcoming place in the Glebe with a simple menu. The food is good and the ambiance makes you want to hold hands across the table. Great washrooms, actually great terrible washrooms, unique in their own way.

Infusion Bistro
825 Bank Street
613- 234-2412

The Pepper Garden

Call ahead. This jewel amid the strip mall blandness of Vanier is very popular with the local community. They have a flair for Italian and a bit of everything else and they do it all well.

Watch for it just beyond St Laurent on the North side of Montreal Road – next to the Pizza Hut.

Definitely worth the trip.

The Pepper Garden
681 Montreal Road
613-749-2999

www.peppergarden.ca