Thursday, July 17, 2008


INFUSION

It was a lazy summer evening and we were in a lazy summer mood for dinner.

After much pondering and a myriad of suggestions from others we decided to return to Infusion in the Glebe.

Infusion was an immediate favourite of ours when we first visited last winter but that was in our pre-blog days so we decided to see if our first impressions still held true.

Infusion is a small, simple space and in the summer they have a patio of sorts in the back. It turns out to be a small number of tables located right next to a blank, bland parking lot.

The trick would be to use a few more plants or screens to separate the tables from the asphalt to lull us somehow into thinking we were actually being transported, however briefly, to a tropical summer.

We opted for the winter space inside.

The main room is more comfortable and conducive to dining.

Infusion is a neighbourhood bistro, relaxed and comfortable. The menu is artfully designed to appeal to almost all tastes from causal noshing to near fine dining.

Seriously tempted by the specials which were Grilled Tuna with a Watermelon and Ginger Salsa (25) or the Maple Mango Shrimp Salad with Balsamic and Field Berry Dressing (17) we decided that we would do a summer nosh.

Lynn ordered the soup of the day, Broccolinni and Parmesan Cheese (8) which could have been a bit thicker but was very tasty. While thin it had all the right nusances of the broccoli and cheese with the hints of onion and garlic just peeking through. Lynn also ordered a half portion of their Caesar Salad. (6)

In a way the Caesar Salad defines the food at Infusion.

The salad wasn’t just tossed together, it wasn’t just another order filled, it was prepared. Crisp romaine lettuce with pancetta, hand made croutons, sun dried tomatoes and large shavings of parmesan cheese, a hint of anchoives, all smoothly coated with a perfect dressing.This salad had a palate crunch and coating that blended together in a perfect summer way. It was a seasonal taste with all the freshness that summer produce offers.

I was feeling summer peckish so I ordered the Antipasto Platter.(12)

Some thought had gone into this presentation. My medley of Italian cold cuts, salami, parma ham and provolone cheese were sliced into linguine thick strips and draped over a collection of red peppers, artichoke hearts and a ragout of shitake, portabello and button mushrooms.

At Infusion the art of food goes beyond presentation. Ingredients are a center piece part to their culinary concoctions. Half of my Antipasto came from Nicastros, an Italian Deli, just kitty corner from the restuarant. The produce was locally sourced.

Lynn could barely finish her half order of salad and I only managed to get through half of my antipasto. The rest is in my refrigerator awaiting a conversion into a glorious sandwich tomorrow.

The table just down from us ordered burgers. The older woman, the mom, chose the lamb burger with goat cheese and a onion merlot reduction served on foccacia bread with a choice of fries or salad.(14)

Her mildly aged daughter also ordered a burger but she chose the beef version with wild mushrooms, a wide choice of cheeses, a sun dried tomato spread, all topped with a chipotle sauce.(14)

I saw their order go by and witnessed their first bites. It was then that I wished that I had brought a bigger appetite with me.

Infusion is a real treat, an excellent example of a local eatery that understands food and presentation, and takes the care to ensure that your meal is exactly what you imagined it would be.

Another treat, the bill. Soup, half order of salad, antipasto and a glass of wine – 36 dollars.

INFUSION

825 Bank Street
613-834-7089

Thursday, July 10, 2008





MURRAY STREET

Every once and a while the cosmos aligns itself and it shines only on you.

Recommended by friends of ours we decided to try Murray Street, billed as a Kitchen/Wine/Charcuterie.

It also happened to be my birthday and Lynn is big deal person about birthdays where I tend to be a tad so whatish.

She offered to take me to Bekta, Benitz or anywhere else that was grand and elegant. It was my birthday after all.

I demurred and suggested that we continue on our quest of the unknown best.

We hit gold with Murray Street.

Their signage isn't clear that there is a dining room hidden in the small house that is Murray Street, but there was a chalk board with a large arrow that directed us down this narrow alley between two buildings towards a wonderful patio.

It was pretty full and busy, a waiter who was walking by with a full tray of wine bottles and glasses, stopped and asked, "What do you want?"

He didn't seem that pleased to see us.

I can understand why as the patio was almost totally occupied and he was busy. But, still balancing his tray of wine bottles and glasses, he said, "I'll see what I can do."

In no time we were seated in a nice corner table with a full view of the patio.

I will short hand the basics. The place is great, the patio a real hidden treat, the service is casual but very professional.

If I had stars to hand out I couldn't give enough of them to Murray Street.

Now having that out of the way I can get to the food.

What owners Steve Mitton and Paddy Whelan have created is something that is unique in Ottawa and perhaps in the country.

Some establishments, like Domus, push their concepts of Canadian and local produce.

Murray Street just cooks with them without the fanfare and the results are extraordinary.

If I had the space here I would reprint their entire menu.

We decided to share the Beet presentation, a salad of sorts, a piece of art really.

It was "Roast baby red beets, pickled baby golden beets, fresh herbs, spiced pecans, Brent Halsall's honey and Monforte sheep's yogurt." (9)

It was delicious. The beets, a favourite of mine, were perfect. This is such an unusual dish that I hardly noticed that the pecans were hardly spicy and the yogurt dressing had been replaced with a soothing vinaigrette. I asked for bread to sop up the remaining dressing.

I imagine that if we had been given the salad that was on the menu we would raving.

Lynn ordered the St. Canut Farms Porcelait. "Pork loin, espresso BBQ sauce, smoked confit cheek, apple jelly and pressed 'scalloped' potatoes." (23)

I opted for the Quebec Lamb Duo. "Braised shank meat shepherd's pie, parsnip-potato puree, baby leek and creamed corn, slow roasted lamb loin, Rideau Pines sugar snap peas and lamb jus." (24)

Our meals arrived on long rectangular plates. Normally I would dismiss this presentation as being silly modern - what's wrong with the round plates that have been used throughout history?

At Murray Street there is a rationale to their plating.

I am going out onto the thin ice here but bear with me.

There is a philosophy at work at Murray Street. On your elongated plate is a subtle ying/yang experience.

You order the lamb and you get two versions. On the right edge of the plate was the slow roasted lamb loin nestling on a hidden bed of whole snap peas. On the other edge of the plate was a freelance constructed shepherds pie flavoured with lambs shank meat, corn, leeks, potato and parsnips.

I had ordered lamb and received a musical score of complimentary tastes.

Lynn had the same experience with her Pork Loin.

She had asked me earlier about Pork Cheeks. I told her that if they were slow cooked they were delicious but made the mistake of saying that they were a meaty version of cod cheeks.

Lynn is a conservative eater and said that she could never imagine eating them.

Her Pork Loin plate had the loin posited on the right side of her plate, to the left was a pork cheek. Mixed into this equation were delightfully scalloped potatoes - concealing a dollop of spinach - and a spice I couldn't identify, perhaps nutmeg or a pinch of cinnamon?

The pork cheek that Lynn had imagined that she would never eat disappeared in a nano second.

I am just touching briefly on the treats that Murray Street has to offer. Their menu is a siren song to lure you back for more and more again.

There is a whole other side to the place.

It is also a charcuterie, a cold cut joint, which has meat and cheese selections that might make you consider giving up on your libido. Food sex.

Drop in for an afternoon draw of beer or a glass of wine and try their enticements.

I could easily say more, but enough.

Sorry, one more thing. I noticed that there were no salt and peppers shakers on the tables. They are available but not a single table requested them.

I love the culinary confidence of that.

Best birthday dinner ever!

Murray Street is a very rare treat.

MURRAY STREET,
110 Murray Street,

613-562-7244